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Some examples of case studies.
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Q&A concerning yarn breakage:
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Yarn
breakage occurs at the sleeve joint section of knit underwear.
Even when a humidifier is used, trouble persists. The sewing
machine used is   Company-make
 - 
(machine speed: 4,000 rpm). The needle used is a UY128GAS
#9/65, the Yarn #50 spun.
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Breakage
of yarn occurs due mostly to the shape (thickness) of the
needle used, with the tapered point of the needle and the
blade having especially significant influences.
In respect to the yarn breakage referred to in your question,
we infer that the breakage occurred due to the low level of
strength of a single yarn in spite of the excellent expansion/contraction
quality of the fabric used. As a result of tests we conducted
focusing on the taper configuration of the point of the needle,
we can report that a very remarkable result has been obtained
with the J ball point. (Please refer to the attached table.)
However, since we could not fully resolve the problem by focusing
solely on the point of the needle, we decided that changing
the shape of the blade of the needle might be an effective
countermeasure. As a result of tests we conducted using various
blade shapes, we discovered that the "OSP" type
is the perfect solution to the problem at hand.
We would therefore like to recommend the use of the UYx128GASOSP
#9J needle to solve the above problem.
Please note that since all of the test results reported here
were obtained under Organ Needle's testing conditions, it
is conceivable that different results may be obtained when
testing is conducted under your own particular conditions.
In the event that the problem persists even when the UYx128GASOSP
#9J is used, please try the UYx128GAS-KN #9 needle instead.
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Q&A concerning skipped stitches:
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Q&A concerning seam puckering:
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Seam puckering occurred in the final process
of sewing of ladies' blouses made of a "new synthetic material."
We changed thread tension and machine speed but the problem
defies solution. The sewing machine used is 
Company's  -   ;
the needle used is a DBx1#9/65 and the thread #60 spun. |
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The material referred to in your question
is liable to cause seam puckering because it is made of extremely
thin fibers, as is well known to you. As causes for the seam
puckering referred to in your question, several factors can
be considered. These include factors related to the feed mechanism
of the machine, thread tension, and how the cloth is woven,
among others.
It follows, therefore, that all conceivable factors should
be taken into account when attempting to find a solution,
including the sewing machine itself, the cloth, the threads
and the needle used. As for the sewing machine, it is necessary
to apply rather strong pressure to the presser foot, lower
the height of the feed dog, make the hole in the needle plate
smaller in diameter and thread tension weaker.
Use of cut-on-the-bias pieces of cloth to which a smoother
has been applied will be found effective. (Use of a piece
of padded paper is sometimes found effective.)
Thin threads less susceptible to contraction/expansion have
also been found effective.
As for needles,
the one with thinnest blade and smoothest surface must be
chosen.
We recommend in this case, DBxINS #9ASU, which was found to
be most effective.
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For inquiries concerning sewing-related troubleshooting, please fill in
the consultation form and send it to our Sewing
Consultation Room.
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