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Needles and threads suitable
for the cloth to be worked on
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| Problems, such
as skipped stitches, thread breakage and needle breakage, happen when
the needles and thread sizes used do not conform with the particular
texture of the cloth being produced, making it impossible to create
beautiful stitch patterns as a result. Therefore, please select the
appropriate combination of needle and thread sizes. |
| Needle size |
Cotton thread size |
Silk threadsize |
Spun polyester thread
size |
Fabrics |
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5/45
|
100 to 130
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160 to 200
|
200
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Extremely thin fabrics, such as
habutae-silk and nylon
(Under T-21)
|
| 7/55 to 8/60 |
100 to 130 |
140 to 160 |
150 to 200 |
| 9/65 to 10/70 |
70 to 80 |
100 to 120 |
130 to 150 |
Thin silk, crepe, satin, Georgette,voile,
organdy
(T-21 to T-30)
|
| 11/75 to 12/80 |
50 to 60 |
80 to 100 |
100 to 130 |
Ordinary silk, thin calico, poplin,ordinary
wool
(T-30 to T-30)
|
| 13/85 to 14/90 |
36 to 40 |
60 to 70 |
80 to 100 |
Ordinary wool such as calico, etc.woolen
goods
(T-40 to T-45)
|
| 16/100 |
30 to 36 |
50 to 60 |
60 to 80 |
Ordinary wool incl. thick calico,
thick woolen goods
(T-50)
|
| 18//110 |
24 to 30 |
45 to 50 |
50 to 60 |
Futon cloth (thick bedding materials),
topcoats
(T-60 to T-70)
|
|
19/120 |
20 to 24 |
40 to 45 |
40 to 50 |
Thick fabrics for bags
(T-80 to T-90)
|
| 21/130 |
12 |
30 to 40 |
30 to 40 |
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Special needles and their uses
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Needles
for knit fabrics (HAx1SP)
The "SP" in "HAx1SP" identifies
the needles as those used exclusively for elastic fabrics, such
as knit and tricot cloth. The rounded point of the needle is designed
to prevent skipped stitches, yarn breakage and the like.
- When using these needles be sure to keep the
yarn tension slightly slack, and do not apply excessive pressure
to the sewing machine's presser foot. Regulate the pressure of
the presser foot at a slightly toned-down level.
- When sewing, stretch the cloth a little just
before it comes under the presser foot. This technique helps add
a beautiful finishing touch to the piece.
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Needles
for leather (HAx1LL and HAx1LR)
The "LL" of the " HAx1LL" and
the "LR" of the "HAx1LR" identifies the needles
as those used exclusively for leather materials (natural and synthetic).
The knife blade-shaped point of the needle makes it easy to sew
leather, which ordinary sewing machine needles find difficult to
pierce.
- Seam length should be no shorter than 2.5mm
because leather is easily snapped off when very short seam are
used.
- When the leather you are working on cannot be
smoothly fed into the sewing machine, apply a piece of thin paper
to the upper and lower surfaces of the leather. This will not
only make for easy feeding of the leather, but will also help
to put stitch patterns in proper alignment.
- When the thread will not tighten properly or
when skipped stitches are found, apply "wax" to the
point at which the thread passes through to improve thread slide.
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Needles
for Georgette (HAx1GT)
The "GT" of the "HAx1GT" identifies
the sewing machine needles as being those used exclusively for Georgette,
organdy, and similar fabrics. As the blade of the needle is made
thinner than ordinary sewing machine needles, "GT" needles
are less likely to cause yarn displacement and/or seam puckering.
- Use #80 thread as standard. As for thread tension,
string the lower thread rather loosely, then adjust the tension
of the upper thread to conform with that of the lower thread.
- To prevent seam puckering and/or stitch wrinkles,
hold both ends of the cloth with your hands and pull the workpiece
slightly to the other side of and away from the sewing machine
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Needles
for decorative stitches (HAxIST)
The "ST" of "HAxIST" identifies
the needles as those used exclusively for decorative stitches and/or
embroidery with thick and/or loosely twisted threads. For this type
of work Gauge #11 and #14 needles are used because the eyes of these
needles are larger than that of the standard HAx1.
- Use #30 thread for the Gauge #11 needle and
#8 thread for the Gauge #14 needle. Do not use extremely thick
threads because they will place undue strain on the sewing machine.
The maximum allowable thickness is #8.
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Needles
for denim fabrics (HAxIDE)
The "DE" of "HAxIDE" identifies
the needles as those used exclusively for denim/raincoat/tent material.
The point of the needle is triangular to allow smooth passage of
the needle and prevent breakage in the material. A Gauge #16 needle
is recommended in view of the thickness of the material to be worked
upon.
- A thick thread can be used because the eye and
groove of the needle are larger than normal; however, we recommend
that #30 to #40 threads be considered the standard.
- When the thread will not tighten properly or
when skipped stitches are found, apply "wax" to the
point at which the thread passes through to improve thread slide.
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Twin-needle
(HZ)
Sewing can be conducted using two upper threads.
This method is used mainly for decorative patterns.
- Note that some sewing machines cannot be used
for twin-needle sewing.
- When using a twin-needle, it will be necessary
to attach the proper accessories to your sewing machine -- such
as presser foot and needle plate, among others; these accessories
normally come with the sewing machine. For details please refer
to your machine's owner's manual
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